Sants-Montjuïc

Every train arrives at Sants, and most tourists leave immediately. Their mistake. Montjuïc—the hill that dominates Barcelona's southern skyline—holds more than a day's worth of reasons to stay: the castle with its complicated history and uncomplicated views, MNAC's Romanesque collection, Miró's foundation, the Olympic ring where Freddie Mercury sang in '92, gardens that cascade down the slopes. The Magic Fountain still draws crowds on summer nights, but the quieter paths above barely see footprints. Down below, the Sants neighborhood runs on commuter logic—the 54 hotels serve people passing through, but the 251 restaurants serve people who live here. Poble Sec, technically part of this district, has become Barcelona's late-night eating street. The 118 attractions include cable cars, cemeteries, and the Poble Espanyol—a 1929 fake village that somehow works. Don't just change trains here.