If you’re looking for the Barcelona of the postcards—the sun-drenched tapas terraces, the Gaudí curves, the sangria-soaked chaos of the Rambla—you’ve taken the wrong metro line. You’ve gone too far, or perhaps, you’ve finally gone far enough. Plaça d’Humberto Rivas isn’t a destination for the casual traveler. It’s a quiet, geometric pocket of air in the Vilapicina i la Torre Llobeta neighborhood of Nou Barris, a district that most tourists couldn't find on a map if their lives depended on it. And that is exactly why it matters.
Named after the legendary Argentine-Spanish photographer Humberto Rivas, who passed away in 2009, this plaza is a fitting tribute to a man who spent his life capturing the 'silence' of the city. Rivas didn't care for the shiny or the new; he chased the shadows, the weathered faces, and the crumbling walls of a Barcelona that was disappearing even as he shot it. To stand here, in this unassuming square on Carrer Pere d'Artés, is to stand in the kind of place Rivas would have loved to photograph. It is functional, unpretentious, and deeply rooted in the daily grind of the people who actually live, work, and die in this city.
The plaza itself is a product of urban renewal, a slice of modern design carved out of a dense residential block. It’s not 'beautiful' in the classical sense. There are no ornate fountains or marble statues. Instead, you get clean lines, concrete benches, and the sound of neighborhood kids kicking a ball against a wall. It’s a space for the locals—the grandmothers pulling shopping trolleys, the old men arguing about football, the teenagers scrolling through phones. It is a memorial that doesn't demand your awe; it simply asks for a moment of your time.
For those who care about photography, this is a pilgrimage to the 'Photographer of Silence.' Rivas was a master of the portrait, known for stripping away the artifice of his subjects until only the raw, psychological truth remained. He treated buildings the same way, photographing them as if they were living, breathing entities with secrets to tell. This plaza, located near the old Fabra i Coats factory district, reflects that stark, honest aesthetic. It’s a reminder that the soul of Barcelona isn't found in the Gothic Quarter's souvenir shops, but in the gray-toned reality of its outer barrios.
Is it worth the trek? If you’re a fan of Rivas’s work, or if you’re a traveler who finds beauty in the mundane and the authentic, then yes. It’s a chance to see a side of Barcelona that is stubbornly resistant to gentrification. There are no overpriced 'tourist menus' here. Instead, you’ll find small, dim bars where the beer is cheap, the olives are salty, and the language spoken is a rapid-fire Catalan that doesn't pause for your benefit.
Coming here is an act of defiance against the 'Disneyfication' of travel. It’s a reminder that a city is more than its monuments; it’s a collection of neighborhoods, each with its own ghosts and its own heroes. Humberto Rivas was one of those heroes—a man who saw the beauty in the shadows. This plaza is a small, quiet corner of the city where those shadows are finally allowed to rest. Don't expect a spectacle. Expect the truth. And in a city as crowded as Barcelona, the truth is the rarest thing you can find.
Type
Memorial park
Duration
30-45 minutes
Best Time
Late afternoon when the light hits the buildings, echoing Rivas's photographic style.
Free Admission
No tickets required
The memorial plaque dedicated to Humberto Rivas
The minimalist concrete architecture
The surrounding local life of the Vilapicina neighborhood
Combine this with a walk through Nou Barris to see the 'real' Barcelona.
Stop at a local 'granja' nearby for a coffee and a bikini (ham and cheese sandwich).
Bring a camera; the shadows and lines of the plaza are a photographer's dream.
Dedicated to the 'Photographer of Silence' Humberto Rivas
Authentic working-class atmosphere far from tourist zones
Minimalist urban design reflecting Rivas's photographic aesthetic
Carrer Pere d'Artés, 3
Nou Barris, Barcelona
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The anti-tourist Barcelona. A gritty, honest stretch of Nou Barris where the Gaudí magnets disappear and the real city begins over cheap beer and the smell of rotisserie chicken.
Only if you are a fan of Humberto Rivas's photography or want to see an authentic, non-touristy side of Barcelona. It is a simple neighborhood plaza, not a major architectural landmark.
Humberto Rivas was a renowned Argentine-Spanish photographer known as the 'Photographer of Silence,' famous for his stark black-and-white portraits and urban landscapes of Barcelona.
The easiest way is to take the L5 Metro to the Vilapicina station. From there, it is a short walk to Carrer Pere d'Artés.
You can visit the nearby Parc del Turó de la Peira for great city views or explore the local bars and markets of the Nou Barris district for a truly local experience.
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